Kitchen Guy

Video: Chile and Cheese Quiche

Posted by Chef Jim on December 30, 2008  |  Comments Off

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Blog Topic: New Year’s Wishes

Posted by Chef Jim on December 27, 2008  |  Comments Off

I gave up making New Year’s resolutions a long time ago. The only one I ever kept was the one about stopping smoking and I figured I couldn’t top that one anyway, so what would be the point?

So instead of resolutions, I’ve compiled a wish list for 2009. Maybe you’ll join me in wishing for some of the same things.

The supermarket where I shop the most recently did a complete store makeover. It was long overdue, but that’s not the point. I noticed a significant increase in the amount of convenience food – products and pre-cooked meals that just require a quick zap in your microwave. The store manager told me that this particular segment of their business is up 60% over the year before. So I don’t blame them for responding to the needs of their market. But here’s my first wish: That people get back to cooking real food to be served at a family dinner table where conversation happens. Buy fresh vegetables and meat and dairy products. Who cares if you’re not a great chef? Just be a good cook. Use a cookbook. Borrow a recipe. Your family will notice.

I am invariably drawn to the gadget wall at stores that sell cooking equipment and related products. I’ve noticed that fewer and fewer of these items are made in the U.S.A. I’m old enough to remember when “Made in Japan” was a joke. But back then, it was a quality issue. Now, “Made in China” can actually make you sick or kill you. Believe me, I’m no xenophobe. My knives are from Germany and Japan. But my pots and pans are American-made clad metal. Having been an advocate for American manufacturing in a previous career, my wish is for domestic manufacturers to find some way – any way – to start up their lines again and produce some quality products for our kitchens.

My “electronic leash,” also known as my cell phone, has become a fairly important part of my life. I recently decided to add texting capability, so now I’m into “thumbing,” too (didn’t that used to mean hitchhiking?). In any case, too many of us have lost the sense of propriety and just plain good manners when it comes to cell phone use. This is a food column, so I’ll confine my comments to using them (or rather not using them) in restaurants. I am stunned by what people will allow me and the rest of humanity to hear about the details of their personal lives. All of the restaurants I know of have telephones. If there’s an emergency and you really need to be reached, I have no doubt the restaurant will let you take a call on their phone. My wish is for an electronic umbrella that interrupts cell phone reception in restaurants (and a few other places, too).

Do we really need any more fast food or chain restaurants in any of our cities and towns? Seriously, have we looked at our bellies lately (and I include myself in that question) and given any thought to what we’re doing to ourselves with these fat- and calorie-laden combo meals piled so high on large plates or stuffed in to-go sacks? I’m a free-enterpriser/capitalist, so you can build and open as many of those places as you want, but my wish (and this applies to independent restaurants, too) is for more reasonably sized portions with healthier choices. And if you need a “doggy bag,” instead of taking it home, why not have the restaurant package it up for a nightly donation to the local homeless shelter or food bank?

Finally, we all know that 2009 will be a year of thrills and spills not unlike the scariest rides at amusement parks. Our economy needs fixing. Our image around the world is in shambles. And even in a world of plenty, people are still hungry. So here’s my wish for those of you who are making the most popular of resolutions: If you resolve to go on a diet to lose weight, then how about donating what you would have eaten (or the amount you would have spent on the extra calories) to a food bank?

My final wish is for all of us: May the year ahead be one of peace, health and prosperity.

Blog Topic: We Need More Cheesecake

Posted by Chef Jim on December 24, 2008  |  Comments Off

I know that cookies are the baked good of choice during Christmas season, and I love cookies. My mid-section is a testament to that. But I think the holiday needs more cheesecake. So…

…this is my Christmas gift to you: I will share three secrets that will produce a perfect cheesecake every time. That means the top of your cheesecake will never crack and the cheesecake will be cakey and creamy, too.

First: When you’re mixing the softened cream cheese with the sugar and eggs, add these after the sour cream. The batter will be smoother; it won’t stick to the bowl, thereby reducing the number of times you have to stop to scrape down the sides.

Second: Bake your cheesecake in a water bath. Wrap your spring form pan in two layers of aluminum foil and place it in a roasting pan. Fill the roasting pan with hot water, about halfway up the side of the cake pan.

Third: This is the most important step of all. When your cheesecake has finished baking just turn the oven off and leave the door closed for one full hour. No peeking! This accomplishes a couple of things: you can handle the pans without oven mitts and the internal temperature of the cake has the chance to drop gradually, rather than being “shocked” by immediate removal from the heat.

Here’s my recipe for Holiday Chocolate Cheesecake. I’m fairly confident you’ll like it enough to make it a part of your annual holiday tradition:

For the crust:
2 cups finely ground chocolate wafers, crushed
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted For the filling:
2 8-oz. blocks cream cheese, softened
1 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 cup chocolate chips
1/2 cup cream
1 pint sour cream

To prepare crust: In a mixing bowl, combine crust ingredients together with a fork until evenly moistened. Lightly coat the bottom and sides of a 9-inch spring form pan with non-stick cooking spray (or butter). Firmly press the mixture over the bottom and 1-inch up the sides of the pan, using your fingers or the smooth bottom of a glass. I frequently use metal measuring cups. Refrigerate the crust while preparing the filling.

To prepare filling: Melt chocolate chips with cream over a pot of simmering water until smooth. Set aside and keep warm. In a large bowl, beat the sour cream on low, then add the softened cream cheese for a minute or two just until smooth and free of any lumps. Gradually add the sugar and beat until creamy, 1 to 2 minutes. Periodically scrape down the sides of the bowl and the beaters. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, and continue to slowly beat until combined. Stir in the vanilla. Pour half the filling into the prepared spring form pan. Then pour in the melted chocolate. Pour in the rest of the batter. With the tip of a sharp knife, gently swirl the chocolate taking care not to pierce the crust on the bottom of the pan.

Preheat the oven to 325. Wrap the spring form pan in two layers of aluminum foil. Place it in a roasting pan. Place the pan on the oven rack, and then carefully pour in hot water to about halfway up the side of the spring form pan.

Bake for 55 to 60 minutes. Turn off the oven and keep the door closed. Do not open the door for at least one hour. Remove the roasting pan and take the cake pan out, removing the layers of foil. Let it set in the refrigerator, loosely covered, for at least 4 hours. Run a sharp knife around the edges and release the spring form. To release from the bottom, use an offset spatula to loosen the cake, and then transfer to your presentation plate. This cheesecake freezes well, so you can make it in advance. Let it thaw in the refrigerator overnight before serving

Video: Potato Pancakes (Latke Napoleon)

Posted by Chef Jim on December 18, 2008  |  Comments Off

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Video: Cranberry Upside Down Cake

Posted by Chef Jim on December 16, 2008  |  Comments Off

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Blog Topic: Luscious Latkes

Posted by Chef Jim on December 15, 2008  |  Comments Off

My late father, to our family’s way of thinking, was the world champion latke maker. To the uninitiated a latke is a potato pancake and it can be a thing of beauty. My Dad’s were the absolute best. He never used a recipe. He just knew exactly how much of each ingredient he needed.

The potato pancake is largely a central and eastern European dish, prominent in Slavic, Teutonic, Scandinavian, and Jewish cultures. Each puts its own spin on the dish but the one essential – grated potatoes – is central to its flavor and composition.

With the advent and ubiquity of food processors, the labor-intensive process of grating by hand became a virtual thing of the past, but there is a noticeable difference in texture. I’ll admit to using my food processor because I’m often in a need-for-speed situation. If I have the time, though, I’ll bring out the old box grater and apply some elbow grease.

Potato pancakes, also known as latkes, are eaten year-round, but at this time of the year, with the approach of the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah, the dish is especially relevant because in the Jewish tradition, the use of oil is a part of the holiday in commemoration of the miracle that occurred after the defeat of the Assyrian-Helenist occupiers by the Maccabees, when one day’s worth of oil lasted for eight days in the redeemed Temple.

In modern Israel, that tradition of using oil in cooking has been extended to the widespread production of doughnuts, fried in oil and then filled with jelly.

But let’s get back to latkes. Potatoes, as you know, are laden with water. A proper latke also includes grated onion and onions contain a lot of water, too. In order to get a crisp latke that holds its other ingredients, it is necessary to squeeze out as much water as you possibly can after you’ve grated the potatoes and onions. There are several ways to do this, but the most effective I’ve found is placing the potato and onion shreds in a clean kitchen towel and twist it until the liquid starts coming out. Then reverse the twist and do it again.

Once you’ve extracted as much of the liquid as possible, place the grated potatoes and onion in a bowl, add flour (remember: we’re making a batter), salt and pepper and beaten egg. Mix everything well, then cover it and let it rest in the refrigerator for a while before frying.

Traditionally, latkes are served with either sour cream and/or apple sauce. I like both, so I created what I call a Latke Napoleon to dress up what has become a fairly common dish. I stack the pancakes this way: pancake, sour cream, pancake, applesauce, pancake, sour cream, dollop of caviar, and garnish with freshly snipped chives.

4 large Russet potatoes, peeled, set in water
1 small onion, peeled
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 cup flour 1 cup applesauce
1 cup sour cream
1 large egg, beaten
Caviar and chives (optional)
canola oil for frying

Grate the potatoes and onion into a bowl, then place them in a strainer over another bowl so that most of the water drains out. Place the potatoes and onions in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out the rest of the water.

Salt and pepper the mixture and add the baking powder and flour, beaten egg and mix well.
In a large frying pan, heat the oil to frying temperature, about 360.

Using a large spoon, drop the batter into the oil, forming pancakes, frying them until they are golden brown. Turn only once, frying again until golden on the second side, then place on paper towels to drain. Keep the pancakes warm in the oven.

Serve the pancakes with plenty of applesauce and sour cream. Alternatively, make a “Napoleon” by stacking the pancakes thusly: Pancake, topped with sour cream, pancake, topped with applesauce, pancake, topped with a dollop of sour cream and caviar on top. Garnish with chives.

Video: Chicken Pomodoro a la Vodka

Posted by Chef Jim on December 10, 2008  |  Comments Off

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Video: Kitchen Guy’s Katsudon – Japanese Pork Cutlets

Posted by Chef Jim on December 5, 2008  |  Comments Off

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Blog Topic: Who’s a Chef?

Posted by Chef Jim on December 2, 2008  |  Comments Off

Marcella Hazan, the respected and brilliant author of many books on Italian cooking, recently published a piece in the New York Times about the overuse and misuse of the term, “chef.”

For the past 20 years or so, being a (legitimate) chef has become quite chic. The success of the Food Network brought about the term, “celebrity chef,” and elevated men and women such as Emeril Legasse, Bobby Flay, Sarah Moulton, and others to widespread fame and acclaim.

Not that they don’t deserve it. Some have leveraged that exposure and opened multiple restaurants in conspicuous (and expensive) places, including hotels, vacation resorts and, of course, Las Vegas.

Vegas used to be the capital of the all-you-can-eat buffet for $5.95. Step into one of those chefs’ eponymous restaurants, and you’ll sometimes wonder if your money would have gone farther on the casino floor.

But back to the subject at hand: Who’s a chef? Who deserves to be called “Chef?”

I remember one exploratory trip to a well-known and prestigious culinary school and I asked my tour guide if, upon completion of the four-year course, if the title “chef” would be conferred along with the diploma.

Nope.

Here’s the real story: Only another chef can confer the title on you. And usually it comes after years of slugging it out in a kitchen doing every conceivable job from dishwashing to shucking oysters to peeling potatoes, to making stock, to…well, everything. To earn the title of chef you must prove your mettle. It’s not a title that should be bandied about. It’s a title that must be earned.

One of the largest national professional associations of chefs surprisingly hasn’t taken a stand on this issue. In fact, they’ve shown themselves to be more interested in cash than caché. They’ve taken to endorsing brand-name food products in television commercials. I recently saw photographs of four of the most preeminent chefs in this country lend their names to a specific food product and it made me wince.

There also are several national membership organizations for “personal chefs,” one of which I used to belong to. But when I saw that anyone could join without any need to show qualifications, I had to drop out. Just because you can cook does not mean you’re a chef.

I’ve also seen television commercials for a regional pizza chain call their kitchen employees “pizza chefs,” as if to convey to you that slapping formula ingredients on pre-packaged dough made them a notch better than the man or woman in the mom-and-pop independent pizza shop who actually take pride in making his own dough, her own sauce, cutting their own vegetables, and such.

When I’m introduced to people who’ve never seen me on television or elsewhere and they ask what I do, I usually respond that I’m a cook. Most of the time, they’ll ask what restaurant I cook in.

And when I tell them I do not cook in a restaurant, they’re often confused. Isn’t that where cooks work?

Many of us do and quite a number of us don’t. Some of us are caterers. Some of us are personal chefs. Some of us are teachers.

I have the greatest respect for great home cooks. I’ve had extraordinary meals from people who have no abiding interest in cooking for a living, but who can make some fantastic food in their home kitchens.

But they would never even dream of calling themselves, “chef.”