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2010 February | Kitchen Guy

Archive for February, 2010

Video: Dry-Rub Steak with Red Wine Sauce

Posted by Chef Jim on February 23, 2010  |  Comments Off

Easy-to-make flavorful rub for pan-seared and oven-finished steaks with a delicious red wine sauce.

For the rub:
1 Tbsp. chili powder
1 Tbsp. espresso powder
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 tsp. ground ginger
1 Tbsp. dry mustard
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. coarse ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. olive oil

For the steaks and sauce:
4 Sirloin or any other tender cut of steak
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium shallot, diced
2/3 cup dry red wine
2/3 cup beef broth
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
salt and pepper to taste

Combine the chili powder, espresso, brown sugar, ginger, dry mustard, salt and pepper. Mix well, then remove one tablespoon of the rub and reserve for the sauce.

With the point of a sharp knife lightly pierce the meat and rub each steak with olive oil. Then rub the dry rub over both sides of the steaks and set aside for 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add 2 Tbsp. olive oil, swirl the pan to coat it and then add teh meat and cook it for 2 to 3 minutes until a dark brown crust forms. Turn and sear the other side for an additional 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove the steaks to a pan with a rack and cook them in the oven for 5 to 8 minutes for medium rare (125). Remove the steaks and cover loosely with foil to keep warm and so that the internal juices redistribute.

In the same skillet used to sear the steaks, add remaining olive oil. Cook the shallots for about 2 minutes. Add the red wine and the broth and the reserved rub. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce reduces to about 1/2 cup. Remove the pan from the heat.

Slowly whisk in the butter piece by piece waiting until each dissolves before adding the next. Taste for seasoning and then serve with the steaks.

Blog Topic: Bang Bang! You’re Alive!

Posted by Chef Jim on February 22, 2010  |  Comments Off

I recently completed taping a number of new episodes of my television show and in one of those episodes, I was inspired by both a personal dining experience and a coincidental request from an old friend to try to simulate a dish I had had just weeks before.

It’s an appetizer created and made famous by the seafood restaurant chain, Bonefish Grill. I understand there are a couple hundred of them, but as well-traveled as I am, I’ve never encountered one.

Nevertheless, on my recent vacation, the new restaurant next to our place in Sint Maarten served an appetizer they called “Bang Bang Shrimp.” At the time, I didn’t know it was a Bonefish Grill staple until I asked the restaurant manager about it.

Coincidentally, a few weeks after I returned, I heard from an old high school chum who has eaten at more than one Bonefish Grill and, as he put it, he’s “addicted” to Bang Bang Shrimp. Could I somehow find out how to make it?

Most chefs happily share their recipes – with very few exceptions. It’s a compliment that someone thinks highly enough of something you’ve created or cooked well. I do recall an incident at a restaurant in Phoenix, Arizona, however, when I asked a chef for a recipe for a dessert I had in his restaurant and he refused. So I recreated it myself and I think mine tasted better. No ego here.

In any case, you can do a search on line for almost any recipe and I did one for Bang Bang Shrimp. A simple Google search reveals that a number of people have made attempts at duplicating it. I did, too. Herewith, I share it with all of you:

You’ll need a pound of medium shrimp (26-31s), shelled and deveined and set them in a cup of milk to soak, while you make the dipping sauce. This dipping sauce is the real feature of the dish, in my opinion.

Combine a half cup of real mayonnaise (not that fake or low-fat stuff) with a quarter cup of Thai sweet chili sauce and 3 teaspoons of Sriracha, a Thai hot sauce. Thin out the sauce with a few splashes of rice wine vinegar.

Dredge the shrimp first in cornstarch, then back into the milk and then into panko style bread crumbs and set aside the coated shrimp for a moment while you heat a large skillet with peanut or canola oil. Carefully drop the shrimp into the hot oil and fry until they’re golden brown.

Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon or tongs to paper towels to drain.

To serve, use lettuce cups or a bed of shredded cabbage and put the dipping sauce in little cups on the side. Finally, garnish with finely sliced green onions.

I understand my old friend’s addiction, now that I’ve made it myself. The sauce, especially, is a keeper.

Blog Topic: Napkin Notes

Posted by Chef Jim on February 20, 2010  |  Comments Off

It makes me nuts when bars and restaurants use black cocktail napkins because I can’t write things on them – someone’s contact info, an idea that popped into my head, a thought about the very place I’m in.

So over the years, whenever white cocktail napkins are available, I’ve collected a bunch of these “napkin notes” and while some are impossible to decipher and others have contact information for people whose names I no longer recognize, there are those that have some thoughts and impressions I thought I’d pass on to you.

Noisy restaurants. From what I read in a recent Wall Street Journal, it’s all the rage in restaurant design to use flat, hard surfaces, open kitchens, little or no carpeting, plain tables with no cloth – all the stuff that makes a restaurant very noisy. Anything that helps dampen noise is absent, because to some, noise equals success. I experienced this firsthand in a new restaurant in Sint Maarten last month, and while the food was really excellent, the decibel level made the experience less than enjoyable.

Audiologists will tell you that 80 decibels is when sound becomes uncomfortable for the average human and it’s even lower as people age, so I’m wondering why restaurant designers think that it’s okay that two people have to scream at each other in order to be heard while trying to enjoy a meal?

Here’s another: Restaurants with undertrained staff. I learned early on – at the very first restaurant I worked in – that no wait staff were permitted to work in the dining room until they knew the menu backwards and forwards, including the ingredients, preparation methods, etc. They also knew that the proper way to serve wine is (a) present the bottle to confirm the selection; (b) cut the foil and use the corkscrew to remove the cork and present the cork; (c) leave the wine glass on the table – don’t pick it up – and pour a small amount to be tasted; (d) when signaled that the wine is acceptable, pour the wine for the others at the table first and the selector last.

Tipping. Having worked as a waiter, I know the importance of tips. I also think I know how to earn a tip. And while I know that many wait staff depend on tips to earn a living, I am mystified by certain behaviors. “Do you need change?” is the most annoying presumptuous question a waiter or waitress can say and it almost always leads me to respond, “Yes, if you want a tip.”

Tipping. Part two. Since when does pouring a cup of coffee deserve a tip? Since when does self-service require a reward for the cashier? When I see a container labeled “Tips,” I am repelled. Tips are supposed to be earned. They are not an entitlement. And while I understand that many states’ labor laws allow restaurants to pay their workers below minimum wage with the expectation that tips will supplement their income, there should be no presumption that a tip is automatic or deserved no matter what.

Menu Spell-check. For goodness sake, every word processing program in existence has spell-check, and while it’s not foolproof, you’d think that menu writers would give their creations a second look. I hereby exempt all Chinese restaurants from this, because it’s actually part of the entertainment. But in furtherance of my observation, I would like to invite all of you who read this column/blog to send me your favorite menu misspellings and bizarre descriptors.

Here’s a starter for you: I was at a restaurant in Israel, and there is a Bedouin delicacy made from sheep’s eyes. On the menu it said, “Lamp Balls.”

Under-pour/Overcharge. I’m back on the wine thing again. A 750 ml bottle of wine should yield about 5 glasses, according to restaurant service norms. That’s 150 ml per pour. Translated into English, that’s about five ounces each. I’ve noticed a number of restaurants with a standard 3.5 to 4 ounce pour. Considering that in many restaurants wine by the glass sells for anywhere from $7 to $15 per glass, that’s bald-faced overcharging.

Beverages are where the profits are made in the restaurant business. You’d be stunned to know how little it costs to pour an average glass of soda pop. (Okay, it’s about five cents – which is why I’m astounded when I see people pay $2.00 or more for a fountain drink and load the cup to the brim with ice.) Back to wine: Most restaurants use what’s called a triple keystone to price their wine, which means that whatever their wholesale cost, the retail price is three times that amount. Break it up by the glass and it’s even pricier.

Bottom line: Give me a proper pour and I promise you a proper tip.

Video: Orange & Chocolate Bread Pudding

Posted by Chef Jim on February 17, 2010  |  Comments Off


It’s often a side dish, but you’ll want to serve this bread pudding for dessert!

Ingredients
8 white bread slices, crusts removed
2 tablespoons butter, unsalted, softened, plus additional for greasing ramekins
1/3 cup orange marmalade
1/2 cup semisweet chocolate, chopped or 1/2 cup chips
2 large eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Method
Preheat the oven to 375. Lightly butter four 1-1/4 cup ramekins. Remove the crusts from the bread and spread one side with the butter and marmalade. Cut the bread into triangular quarters and arrange in the base of each ramekin, overlapping to fit. Sprinkle with half of the chocolate and repeat with the remaining bread and chocolate to make two layers. Whisk the eggs, milk, cream, sugar and vanilla in a bowl or large glass measuring cup. Pour the egg mixture over the bread. Set the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake until puffed and golden brown, about 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving.

Video: Beef Wellington

Posted by Chef Jim on February 8, 2010  |  Comments Off

A simplified version of the classic. This one doesn’t use foie gras, but duxelles and Gorgonzola instead.
Here’s what you need:
1 puff pastry sheet
4 filet mignon (about 6 oz. each)
1 lb. mushrooms, chopped fine
2 shallots, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced
3 oz. unsalted butter
4 oz. Gorgonzola cheese crumbles
1 egg, beaten
Here’s how to make it:

Sauté mushrooms with shallots and garlic in butter until all of the moisture is cooked out.

Sear filets over high heat until nicely crusted. Set aside. Preheat oven to 400.

Roll out puff pastry and cut into four squares.

Place an ounce of the Gorgonzola and a quarter of the mushroom mixture in the center of each square and then place the filet on top of the mixture.

Gather the corners of the puff pastry and enclose the meat. Invert and place on a shallow baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Repeat with each of the filets. Brush the pastry with the beaten egg and bake in the oven for about 20 minutes, until the pastry is puffed and golden. The filet will be medium rare.

Video: Apple Quick Bread

Posted by Chef Jim on February 2, 2010  |  Comments Off

It’s quick! It’s easy! It’s so delicious…but is it a dessert or a breakfast bread? You’ll have to make it and taste it to find out.
Formats available: Quicktime (.mov)

4 cups of baking apples, peeled, cored and cubed
4 large eggs, beaten
1 cup canola oil
2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups granulated sugar

Topping
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup all-purpose sugar
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

Preheat oven to 350. Lightly grease two standard bread loaf pans.

Peel, core and clice the apples and cut into one-inch chunks.

Beat eggs in mixer bowl until pale and fluffy. Add the oil and beat slowly until combined. Add the vanilla, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. Beat until thoroughly mixed. With the mixer on low speed, add the flour and sugar to blend. Turn the mixer to high and beat until mixture is smooth (it will be very thick). Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the chopped apples.

Divide the mixture between the two loaf pans.

Make the topping by cutting the butter into the flour with a fork and adding the cinnamon and sugar and mix until crumbly. Sprinkle equal amounts on each loaf. Bake for one hour until firm to the touch. Remove and cool on a rack. When completely cool, remove from the pans and slice.

 

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